Straight answers about your fence.

Cedar privacy fences on steel posts, in board on board, dog ear or gothic point, and chain-link in galvanized or black vinyl. We build walk gates and drive gates on metal frames for both. We do not install pine pickets.

We build them on site. Setting each post and building the fence to the lot lets us follow the grade, square the corners and put the gates where you actually walk, instead of forcing stock panels to fit.

Our own crew. The same crew has built with Blake for over 10 years, and we never subcontract. Blake bids the job, the crew builds it, and we stand behind it ourselves.

Yes. We seal new cedar with an oil-based stain once the wood is dry so it sheds water and keeps its color instead of going grey in the sun. Ask about stain when you get the estimate.

If most of the posts are solid and the damage is limited to a few sections, some pickets or a gate, repair is usually the better value. If posts are failing all along the line, replacement often makes more sense. Blake looks at the fence in person and tells you which way he would go.

Yes. No fencing job is too small. Replacing a few pickets, resetting one post or fixing a sagging gate is the kind of work we do in Lubbock.

No. Estimates inside Lubbock are free. Call or send the form and we will set a time for Blake to look at the fence and give you a price before any work starts.

Mention our website and save 5% (up to $200, repairs only). Say so when you call or when Blake comes out to bid the job, and it comes off the repair price.

Yes. On chain-link we straighten bent top rail, re-stretch and re-tie fabric and reset leaning posts. On cedar we replace posts, rails and pickets and rehang gates.

An oil-based penetrating stain. It soaks into the cedar and seals it so water beads off instead of soaking in, rather than sitting on the surface like paint. We use Wood Defender fence stain in nine colors: Cedar Tone, Redwood, Leatherwood, Oxford Brown, Desert Sand, Rustic Oak, Sierra, Sable Brown and Coffee Brown.

As soon as the wood is clean and dry, which in Lubbock is usually within a few weeks of the build. Sealing it early keeps the boards from greying before they are ever protected.

Usually. If the posts and rails are solid, a clean and re-seal brings the color back and stops the boards soaking up water. Soft posts or split rails get fixed first, then the fence is treated.

Spring. Fences come through winter dry and grey, and the weather is warm enough for stain to cure before the summer sun. Call early in the season to get on the schedule.

Yes. We stain and treat pergolas as well as fences, and it often makes sense to do both at the same visit with the same stain so the yard reads as one color.

Pine pickets twist, cup and check as they dry out in Lubbock's low humidity. Cedar pickets are more stable, naturally resist rot and insects, and stay straighter on the fence for longer. We have built with cedar pickets since 1997.

Wood posts rot at the soil line, which is where most Lubbock fences fail. Steel posts set in concrete do not rot and do not snap when a front hits the fence broadside, so the line stays straight.

We build 6 ft and 7 ft privacy fences. Six is the usual back-yard height; seven adds privacy next to a two-story neighbor or a busy street. Check your HOA rules before choosing seven.

Yes. Bare cedar greys within a season in the sun. Once the wood is dry, we seal it with an oil-based stain so it sheds water and keeps its color. We can bid the stain with the fence.

Yes. We cut the damaged mesh back to sound wire, splice in a new section and re-stretch the run. The patch uses matching galvanized or black vinyl fabric so it does not stand out from the rest of the fence.

A slack or missing tension wire. We run a new bottom wire, pull it tight and tie the fabric to it along the run. That holds the mesh at the ground so there is nothing for the dog to push through.

No. The bent length of rail is cut out and a new piece sleeved in. The fabric is untied, the new rail goes in and the fabric is re-tied to it. The rest of the fence stays as it is.

Yes. A dropped or dragging chain link gate is usually a worn hinge or a gate post that has moved. We re-hang the gate, replace hinges and latches, and reset the post if it is the cause.

Galvanized is the standard silver chain-link and costs less. Black vinyl-coated fabric and posts disappear into trees and landscaping, so people choose it for front yards, lake lots and anywhere the fence is on show. The frame underneath is the same.

Yes, it is a common choice for dog yards. Fabric runs to the ground with a bottom tension wire so a digger cannot push under it, and gates get latches that catch. Tell Blake the breed and he will size the height.

Yes. We fence acreage outside Lubbock and across rural West Texas. Blake measures the line in person so the bid covers the real distance, corners and gates.

Yes. Bent top rail, torn or sagging fabric, missing ties and leaning posts. Chain-link repair has its own page under fence repair.

Yes. Old panels, pickets, rails and posts go on the trailer and leave with us the same day. Tear-out and haul-off are part of the replacement bid, not something you arrange on your own.

Usually. We set the new posts where the old ones came out unless you want to move the line, add a gate or square up a corner. Pulling the old footings lets us reuse the same spots.

Sometimes. Solid steel posts, a square gate frame or good chain link fabric can stay. Old wood posts and split or cupped pickets cannot. We check each on site and tell you what is worth keeping.

Only as long as it takes to pull the old fence and set the new posts. Tell us about dogs when you book and we plan the tear-out so the yard is not left open longer than it has to be.

Until the cedar is dry, which in Lubbock usually means a few weeks after the build. Sprinkle water on a board: if it soaks in within a minute the fence is ready, if it beads up give it more time.

We use Wood Defender fence stain in nine colors: Cedar Tone, Redwood, Leatherwood, Oxford Brown, Desert Sand, Rustic Oak, Sierra, Sable Brown and Coffee Brown. Bring a photo of your house and we will narrow it to two.

Semi-transparent. All nine colors let the cedar grain show through. It is an oil-based stain that soaks into the wood rather than a solid color that sits on the surface and peels.

Yes. As long as the wood has dried, we stain it the same way we stain our own builds. We will point out any boards that should be replaced before the stain goes on.

Usually, as long as the posts and rails are sound. Greying is surface damage from the sun. Once the fence is cleaned and treated the wood takes an even color again and stops soaking up water.

Yes, every time. Loose pickets, split boards, soft posts and dragging gates are repaired first. Sealing over damage only preserves the damage.

Rarely. An unsealed cedar fence that is a few years old is exactly what treatment is for. If it has stood ten or more summers bare, we look harder at the posts and rails before we recommend it.

The darker tones do the most to even out a patchy fence, and the lighter ones let more of the old variation show. We use Wood Defender fence stain in nine colors: Cedar Tone, Redwood, Leatherwood, Oxford Brown, Desert Sand, Rustic Oak, Sierra, Sable Brown and Coffee Brown.

A wood gate frame racks out of square under its own weight, the hinges pull on the post, and the post leans. Then the gate drags and the latch misses. Our new gates are built on metal frames so the frame cannot rack, and hung on steel posts set in concrete.

Yes. Most gate repairs are a gate post reset, new hinges, a squared frame or a latch adjustment, and the fence on either side stays as it is. If the gate itself is past saving, we build a new one to match the existing pickets.

Wide enough for what has to come through: a car, a boat, a trailer or a truck. Double drive gates split the span so each leaf stays light enough to swing. Blake measures the opening and what you drive during the estimate.

Yes. Mention our website and save 5% (up to $200, repairs only). A gate repair is a repair. Say so when you call or when Blake bids the job.

No. We clean it in place, replace any slats that have split and work the stain into the posts, beams and top slats where they stand, using ladders and sprayers.

The top slats face the sky and take direct sun all day while rain sits on their flat tops. They dry, grey and check well before the posts, which only get sun from one side.

Yes. The same nine Wood Defender colors go on both, and doing them in one visit is the easiest way to make the yard read as one color. Bring a photo if the fence was stained by someone else.

Sooner than a fence. The top slats take sun from every angle, so plan on a fresh coat every few years and check the tops of the slats each spring. If water stops beading on them, it is time.

Keep the dogs on a lead or inside, prop the loose section with a couple of boards if it is safe to do so, and call us. Tell the receptionist the fence is down and you have dogs so we can work you in as early as the schedule allows.

Often, yes. If the panels are intact and only the posts failed, we stand the panels back up on new or reset posts and replace the broken pickets and rails. If the wood was already rotted and splitting, we bid a replacement alongside the repair.

Yes. We are open seven days a week, 7:30 AM to 8:00 PM, weekends included. Call during those hours and we will set the first visit as soon as the schedule allows.

A repair is only as good as its posts, so that is where we start. Failed posts get reset or replaced rather than propped, and the rails are re-fastened to them.

Yes. Replacing a handful of split or missing pickets is one of the most common calls we get in Lubbock. We bring cedar, match the width and top cut as closely as we can, and fasten the boards to the rails so they stay put.

Not at first. New cedar is lighter than weathered boards. Once the repair has dried for a few weeks, a coat of oil-based stain over the whole fence evens the color out, or you can let the new boards grey in on their own.

Yes. When a post has to come out, a steel post set in concrete goes in its place. That is the same post we build new cedar fences on, and it will not rot at the soil line the way the old wood post did.

Push on the hinge post. If it moves, the post is the problem and the gate will keep dragging no matter how many times the hinges are adjusted. If the post is solid, the gate frame has racked out of square and needs to be rebuilt or re-braced.

Board on board. The pickets overlap, so there is no gap to open up as the cedar dries. It uses the most material, so it is the heaviest and costs the most of the three, and it is the one to pick if privacy is the point.

Both are pickets set side by side on the rails. Dog ear pickets have clipped top corners for a plain, even top line. Gothic point pickets come to a shaped point for a more traditional look. The build underneath is the same.

Six feet is the standard Lubbock back-yard height. Seven adds privacy next to a two-story neighbor, an alley or a busy street. Check your HOA rules first; some limit height.

Yes. A cap board along the top with a trim board under it finishes the fence and covers the picket ends, which helps them shed water. It works on any of the three styles.